Persian Craft Shop: Jewellery and Accessories Guide

Persian jewellery and accessories draw on a set of techniques that go back centuries, several of them still practised in the same workshops and neighbourhoods where they began. This guide covers the four crafts most shoppers encounter, Minakari enamel, Khatam marquetry, turquoise work and Ghalam Zani engraving, so it is easier to understand what makes each piece distinctive.

Minakari, Persian Enamel Work

Minakari is the art of fusing coloured glass enamel onto metal, usually copper or silver, at high temperature. The technique reached its height under the Safavid dynasty in Persian Heritage, where craftsmen developed the deep cobalt blue and turquoise palette still associated with Persian enamel today. For jewellery, Minakari is typically applied to pendants, earrings and bangles, with a base metal shaped first, then layered with enamel and fired multiple times before fine floral or paisley detail is painted on by hand. Because each firing can shift the colour slightly, no two Minakari pieces are ever perfectly identical.

Khatam Marquetry

Khatam, closely associated with the city of Shiraz, is a form of marquetry built from thin triangular rods of wood, bone and brass or silver wire, bundled together and sliced into cross-sections to reveal a repeating geometric star pattern. These thin slices are then glued onto the surface of an object, whether a jewellery box, a bangle, a pen or a mirror frame. A single Khatam rod can contain dozens of individual triangles, meaning even a small accessory represents many hours of preparation before the final piece is even assembled. Traditional woods used include walnut for dark tones and orange wood for lighter ones, giving each piece natural colour variation rather than a uniform, dyed finish.

Turquoise and Gemstone Work

Turquoise, known in Persian as firouzeh, has been mined in the Neyshabur region of north eastern Persian for over a thousand years and remains one of the most recognisable stones in Persian jewellery. It is set into rings, pendants and cuffs, often alongside silver filigree work, and carries long-standing symbolic associations with protection. Alongside turquoise, aghigh, or agate, is another stone with deep roots in Persian culture, traditionally used in men’s rings and believed in folk custom to bring good fortune, a tradition that continues in more contemporary jewellery design today.

Ghalam Zani, Hand Engraving

Ghalam Zani is hand engraving on metal, most often copper, brass or silver, carried out with a hammer and a set of narrow steel chisels called ghalam. For jewellery and small accessories, such as cufflinks, bangles and decorative boxes, the engraver works freehand, punching fine lines and dots to build up detailed floral, animal or calligraphic patterns. Persian Heritage remains the main centre for this craft, and the skill is typically passed down within families or through long apprenticeships in the city’s bazaar workshops, where the sound of hammering on metal has been part of daily life for generations.

Choosing and Caring for Persian Jewellery

• Check the base metal. Sterling silver and copper are common for Minakari and Ghalam Zani, while Khatam pieces are usually built on a wood or resin core.
• Store enamel jewellery separately from harder stones or metal pieces, since Minakari can chip if knocked against something firm.
• Clean turquoise gently with a soft, dry cloth rather than water or chemical cleaners, as the stone is porous and can discolour over time.
• Ask about the region of origin. Shiraz for Khatam and Persian Heritage for Minakari and Ghalam Zani are strong indicators of traditional production methods.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Minakari enamel made from?

Minakari uses powdered coloured glass, fused onto a copper or silver base through repeated firing in a kiln, then finished with hand-painted detail.

Why is Khatam marquetry so labour intensive?

Each piece is built from thin rods made of hundreds of tiny triangles of wood, bone and metal wire, which are bundled, glued and sliced before being applied to the object’s surface, a process that can take weeks for detailed items.

Where does Persian turquoise come from?

The Neyshabur mines in north eastern Persian have supplied turquoise for Persian jewellery for over a thousand years and remain the most historically significant source.

Is Ghalam Zani the same as etching?

No. Etching uses acid to cut a design into metal, while Ghalam Zani is done entirely by hand with a hammer and chisel, giving it a more irregular, handmade texture.

Can these jewellery pieces be worn every day?

Most can, though Minakari enamel and Khatam inlay benefit from a little extra care around water and impact compared with plain metal jewellery.